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Must see: Gradinile fermecatoarei Vile Rufolo din Ravello, Coasta Amalfi

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Coasta Amalfi  din sudul Italiei este unul dintre cele mai frumoase locuri din lume. Fiind atat de aproape de noi – doua ore cu avionul pana la Napoli, apoi inca o ora cu un autobuz local pana la Sorrento si alte cateva zeci de minute tot cu autobuzul pana in Positano, e pacat sa n-o vedeti macar o data in viata. Sigur, autobuzele vor intarzia, trenuletele de coasta va vor parea niste tramvaie dezafectate, dar stim deja ca italienii nu sunt nemti. Frumusetea ametitoare a peisajelor va compensa din plin aceste mici neajunsuri, iar starea de dolce far niente va va molipsi pana la urma. Nu degeaba multi dintre bogatii lumii isi fac drum pe acolo, nu degeaba au fost turnate in zona filme celebre. Vom vorbi mult despre Coasta Amalfi pentru ca am batut-o la pas acum vreo trei ani si sunt multe poze care asteapta sa va fie dezvaluite si multe amintiri de povestit. Favoritele grupului nostru vesel  au fost orasele Positano si Ravello, insula Capri si pensiunea din Praiano la care am stat, de pe terasa careia am avut parte de cele mai frumoase rasarituri si apusuri 7 dimineti si nopti la rand.

Pentru ca a venit primavara si toti ne dorim sa iesim la aer, azi va propunem o scurta vizita in gradinile celebrei Vile Rufolo unde Romy Schneider a filmat in anii 50 o parte a trilogiei Sissi. Va amintiti secventele acelea in care ea se refacea dupa o boala cumplita la plamani in Corfu si Madeira? Ei, bine, secventele au fost de fapt trase in Italia, cele mai multe pe terase vilei Rufolo, o simfonie florala suspendata deasupra marii si marginita in departare de coastele muntilor. Si pentru ca tot am apucat sa scriu cuvantul simfonie, mi-am adus aminte si de Wagner. Faimosul compozitor era foarte legat de Ravello si de aceea festivalul care se tine anual la Vila Rufolo este cunoscut drept Festivalul Wagner.

Intrarea in vila se afla langa turnul cu ceas  din  fermecatoarea Piazza del Vescovado , destul de aproape de statia in care va lasa autobuzul pe care l-ati luat fie din Amalfi, fie din Positano. Nu are sens sa va aventurati cu masinile personale pe Coasta Amalfi decat daca sunteti amatori de senzatii foarte tari. Drumurile sunt foarte inguste, o singura banda pe sens, foarte serpuite, foarte aglomerate de multe ori si teribil de aproape de mare.
Inceputurile vilei dateaza pe la 1200, iar , in timp, dreptul de proprietate a trecut de la  puternica familie Rufolo, la familiile  Confalone, Muscettola,  D’Afflitto și, în cele din urma, Scot Francis Neville Reid. Arhitectura este marcata de influentele culturale arabe si siciliene, iar cladirea principala a gazduit un papa, Adrian IV, si un rege, Robert de Anjou. Plus pe  Boccacio,  D.H.Lawrence, Jackie Kenenedy, contemporana Hillary Clinton,  nenumarati actori, compozitori, cantareti si aristocrati.  Deosebita este manastirea maura, o cladire inchisa de arcade ascutite, pe care se pliaza un rand dublu de loggii cu decoratiuni in stil arab.

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Vraja Vilei Rufolo atinge apogeul in gradina sa celebra atat de  iubita de Wagner si de absolut toti cei care-i trec pragul. Impresionanta este sala de spectacole in aer liber unde, cat timp e cald, au loc spectacole  de muzica de camera, culminand cu „Festivalul Wagner”. Aceasta miunata sala suspendata nefiresc peste marea Tiraniana si invaluita de mirosul florilor  iti taie respiratia.

http://youtu.be/71wFuCsK47s

SAM_0719SAM_0724SAM_0734SAM_0764SAM_0782HPIM3803HPIM3794HPIM3798HPIM3787HPIM3782HPIM3780HPIM3779sursa foto: arhiva personala

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